Spain Camino Del Norte: Ribadesella, Viveiro, Muxia and more

After making the agonizing decision to pick up a rental car in Gijon I decided to take the bus from San Vincente De la Barquera. My walking the Camino Del Norte was officially done. I am a tourigrino now,  a day hiker,  but out of a desire not fully realized I then drove 2.5 hrs backwards to the town of Ribadesella back on the camino and checked into a lovely casa rural . Bajo Los Tilos is a sweet little place with chickens, fresh eggs set below a rock face mountain and forest but not far from the ocean. The owner and staff, amazing! Since it is still early season she was not serving dinner but the closest restaurant was only in driving distance so she made me a dinner of pasta and tuna fish. So tasty good I wolfed it down like a ravenous dog who hadn’t eaten in weeks. Definitely recommend this place.

From here I took a day trip and hiking at the famous Bufones Do Pria ( blowholes ). I hiked up and down the cliff and stones looking in to the holes but unfortunately or fortunately depending on how one looks at things the tide was out and the water was too low to form the blowing water. This was better than the official camino. Wow! The sound of water rushing under the rocks at your feet was terrifying.

The area was amazing and only a few spanish tourist there with me. I drove around the countryside a bit more then went into Ribadesela.  It’s a small town but has amazing seafood. I ate some lovely shrimp and took an extra serving back to the casa rural.  I enjoyed my time here so much I did not want to leave. It was only because she was fully booked the next day why I left. I went on to Vivero and nice seaside village. I only stayed here one night but it was peaceful. Lovely empty beach and another amazing sea view.  The next step was a 2.5 hr drive along the coast past Ferrol to Muxia and The Apartmentos do Costa. Wow ! Wow! And Wow! Top floor apartment 360 degree ocean view and outside the main area away from embarking and disembarking pilgrims.

From here I have a window to the world and the cost cannot be beaten. I will soon meet Carol from Canada here and I was excited to see her as it’s has been a couple weeks since I saw her and Keith last. Unfortunately Keith returned to work and Carol continued alone yet not alone with fellow pilgrims beside her. The second day in Muxia I was walking down the hill and I thought I was seeing ghosts. Maybe my mind was playing tricks but right in front of the gate to the apartment who do I see taking pictures? Daniel from Germany whom I met the day after I broke my knee brace. We both were waiting for the bus due to foot/knee issues. I had not seen him for 5 weeks and here he stood in front of my place taking photos of the ocean but of course this is the way of the Camino.

The following day Carol was arriving with another pilgrim from Germany, Dominic who needed s place to stay for one night. Daniel and I decided to surprise her. She and her husband met Daniel on the Camino also. She thinks she will see him tomorrow but she doesn’t know he is already here. When she saw him she screamed so loud and she was so happily shocked…it was a great surprise. We all had dinner together as I had prepared a gluten free chicken soup that afternoon. ..it was really good and everyone had vino tinto to wash it all down.

Another day passed and we all were official tourigrinos and I took Carol and Daniel to a hidden waterfall I had discovered the day before. We also found a second waterfall in another location which I unsuccessfully searched for the previous day. It was indeed a wonderful day and I shared it with the two nicest people. The following day Carol, myself and Daniel had much needed hair appointments, a rarity on the camino and on return the apartment Carol prepared some delicious ribs. Limited supplies but we make due.

It was so nice to share some non Camino moments with Carol and Daniel. We sat, talked, joked, laughed hardily and reflected back on our Camino. It was the way it should be and the way it was intended. Now I have some more time to reflect and next week I go on to Santiago de Compostela. I wanted this time in Muxia to be away from the crowd of pilgrims. I almost feel snobbish….I chose to do it this way because my journey was bitter sweet. This Camino was not so much about walking. Although I did walk a lot it was about something else. I haven’t quite grasped the meaning just yet. I have seen more on this trip because I decided it was important to take time to be amazed. I didn’t just want to walk and yes, I was truly amazed at some sights. I actually heard myself say Wow! A few times.

I feel indifferent now. I get a slight anxiety at the sight of pilgrims. It’s almost as if I really am done walking pilgrimage. I somehow am starting to realize that I may have found the answers to my burning life questions. I don’t know how I know or maybe the signs are just here. On the rocks I see hearts everywhere, I saw a turtle … no not a real turtle of actual heart but a representation of one grown from the yellow moss On The rocks.

I saw one last year In the same location. And this year I saw many. It’s almost as if this is the message I was waiting for. Love myself, love the life I live, enjoy each moment and know true and meaningful love is coming…..waiting for me. I am blessed.  Yesterday in the rain I drove 30 minutes along the coast to see another lighthouse in Cabo Vilan, Cabo De las Gaviotas. Beautiful, but in the pouring rain I could not see Muxia from the distance and fog. It was still lovely with amazing flowers and a nice walk to the top which I’m sure on a sunny day would have been amazing. Thank goodness for my Ferrino rain jacket.. seems now I do not mind walking in the rain thanks to the camino. One major lesson learned is getting outside the comfort zone and just walking and enjoying the rain.

I am leaving Muxia tomorrow and I sat and watched the sunset. For three days it rained, including this morning and at 5pm the sun came roaring out as if someone tossed it up into the sky. Everything has revealed it’s hidden meaning for me now…it’s all so clear. I worry about nothing and expect everything good. I am living in the simplicity and carry everything on my back. I don’t feel the need to walk anymore although exercise is still a part of my life…heelsperricus is still hurting and today the cyborg turtle was tearing her ugly head. In the next few days as I will reach Santiago De Compostela and I am still reflecting. I will try to update how my gear worked and didn’t work and what I would change if anything. I realize now I’m incredibly fortunate. The Camino gave me everything I needed when I needed it and although I didn’t walk the full 600 miles I wasn’t far from my goal and that’s enough. My watch is still registering more than 15,000 steps each day off the official camino. Sometimes high sometimes low but always moving forward.